These are my top calls and texts after hours. In an effort to cut down on redundant communications and make being on-call 24/7 less unsustainable, this FAQ page is an attempt to answer some of the really basic things I get asked. I am also working on some educational modules to help folks be better prepared for various situations, and provide education to others who may or may not be clients but may not have a more local veterinary resource.
If you still need help, you may continue the text conversation, but understand that by doing so you are consenting to a triage/telemedicine consult fee payable through Square. (link here)
Quick run-down of a really basic goat physical exam:
Check FAMACHA score. You can find more on this on wormx.info.
Check temperature. Normal goat temperature is roughly 101.5-103.5. Depending on time of year, 103.5-104 is somewhat of a gray zone, but I would consider over 104 a fever. Temperature will be most accurate in the morning.
Check rumination. Watch for cud chewing. You can listen to the rumen and want 1-2 rumen contractions per minute.
Any other abnormalities. Snotty nose? More coughing than usual (sometimes goats just cough)? Diarrhea? Lethargy? All things to note.
If you’re going to text me I want to know information like age, if this animal has recently kidded, etc.
My goat appears bloated - what should I do?
Bloat is when a ruminant is severely distended on the left side of the abdomen when viewed from behind. The left side is where the rumen is located, and the “bloat” is a buildup of gas in the rumen, whether “free gas” or “frothy” bloat. The vast majority of bloat cases I see are just indigestion and a dose of 15 ml Mylanta (magnesium hydroxide - OTC at Walmart, CVS, etc) will treat it. If an animal is in respiratory distress, they may need tubed ASAP to relieve the gas buildup. “Frothy” bloat will need a medication to break down the froth bubbles, such as poloxalene found in TheraBloat or similar products. Bloat is often associated with other problems such as polio (secondary from rumen acidosis) or plant toxicities, so be sure to address these issues if it’s not just a random occurrence of bloat. 90%+ when somebody calls me because a goat is slightly bloated, they are able to relieve it themselves with OTC medication and I never hear back.
My goat is just acting “off.” Lethargic, may or may not have diarrhea.
Check FAMACHA score. Most of these cases will be parasites. Follow recommendations on wormx.info. Be sure you are using correct dosages and dewormer types based on wormx.info. Usually for goats this will be Cydectin sheep drench at double the sheep dose combined with a dewormer from another class such as Safeguard or Valbaxen. Safeguard alone really isn’t that effective even though it is one of the few medications labeled for goats. Also make sure you are using orally-formulated medications.
It is worth noting that barber pole worm, the #1 killer of small ruminants in KY, does not cause diarrhea; however, it is often part of a coinfection with “HOT complex” species, of which others can cause diarrhea. So, diarrhea is a good sign that you may have a parasite problem in general.
If this is a male goat, have you seen him pee recently?
Male goats that are blocked may or may not show obvious signs. Sometimes they are just “off” showing various subtle signs of pain. Sometimes they appear bloated and uncomfortable. Sometimes they do show signs of straining to pee- standing stretched out with only dribbles for pee, sometimes making straining motions. You can watch your animal to verify they are not peeing, but this is definitely an emergency that requires immediate veterinary attention. It is recommended that male goats eat a balanced diet to prevent urinary calculi. You can also buy ammonium chloride on hand to drench with when needed.
My goat may or may not be in labor.
If you’re breeding goats, you need to be prepared with various supplies in case you need to help, because goats tend to go after hours or on weekends and I hear from lots of folks whose regular vets aren’t available and they have to haul in. So, be prepared for that with at minimum gloves, lots of lube, ideally also a head snare such as a Kellie’s Kid Puller. Labor should progress within 30 minutes of a water bag presenting. If not, it is time to go in and check things out. Normal presentation is “nose and toes” - nose sitting on top of two front feet. If you don’t have normal presentation, you need to either go in and assist or get help. Be CLEAN, be GENTLE and use LOTS of lube.